Fratello Classics: The Most Exciting Omega Watch

This post is a part of my series of Omega articles, zooming in on some of the most interesting and iconic models that Omega manufactured (or still manufactures), which began last week with a list of Replica Omega watches you can find for under $1,000. In this week’s post, I attempt to answer the question of  what is the most exciting Omega watch ever — in my own humble opinion, that is.

It isn’t probably surprising that the most exciting Omega watch to me is a Speedmaster. However, it might surprise you that it is not one of the first Speedmaster watches, the ones with Lemania-based caliber 321 column-wheel chronograph movements. These are the Speedmaster watches considered to be the most collectible for real purists. Although I do own a few of these vintage Speedmaster watches myself, the one that really excites me is a more recent model. It is a High Quality Cartier Replica Watches from 1969, with the Lemania-based caliber 861 movement, in a gold case.

Omega Speedmaster gold - wrist shot

In 1969, after the Apollo 11 moon landing, Omega decided to produce a commemorative model in all gold —  gold case and bracelet and even a gold dial. Instead of the black bezel with tachymeter scale, Omega installed a burgundy-colored bezel. This model goes by the reference BA 145.022 (instead of 145.022ST for the normal stainless-steel Speedmaster Professional at the time) and has a total production of only 1,014 pieces.

Of these 1,014 pieces, the first 30 were individually numbered and engraved with the names of their receivers. These first 30 watches were presented to VIPs during a gala dinner at the Hotel Warwick in Houston on November 25th, 1969. Number 1 was offered to U.S. President Richard Nixon, who declined the watch. Number two was for his Vice President Spiro Agnew, who also declined it. (It has been said that the value of these watches were too high for an elected official to accept as a gift.) Both of these watches are in the Omega museum in Bienne, Switzerland (a visitor’s photo report from the museum can be found here). The other 28 gold Speedmaster Professional models were offered to the astronauts who were present at the dinner. Later on, Omega did a few more individually numbered and engraved versions of this Best Breitling Replica Watches for Sale astronauts from the Apollo 14, 15, 16 and 17 missions.

Efficiency rules at Breitling (I)

Manufacture Best Replia Breitling Watches in La Chaux-de-Fonds is a lesson in efficiency and coherent organisation, inside a building that favours the same clean, precise aesthetic as the Pop Art canvases that line the walls. HH Magazine takes a tour.

No doubt the first thing to impress itself on visitors to Breitling Chronométrie, the brand’s production facility in the Swiss town of La Chaux-de-Fonds, is the ten-metre high statue in the reception hall. While one might expect it to portray Léon Breitling, the man who founded the brand in 1884, the figure towering above the somewhat mystified spectator is in fact a Chinese soldier in khaki uniform, gripping a machine gun. “This is the symbol of Breitling,” announces Jean-Paul Girardin, Vice President and Chief Operating Officer, without a flicker of a smile. “It was commissioned by Mr Schneider, Breitling’s proprietor, from a Chinese artist and friend. He wanted an artwork that would symbolise our values. Initially his friend was somewhat reticent, given the subject, but now here it is.”

Not that Breitling has bellicose intentions: the concept behind the statue illustrates the self-same principles (some would say virtues) to which the brand has adhered for decades: rigour, professionalism and efficiency. Function takes precedence, not least in the brand’s “instruments for professionals”; a principle which everything else serves to highlight, including the building’s architecture which follows a purely industrial logic, although the pared-down aesthetic of the whole lends harmony to order. Thus China’s answer to G.I. Joe blends seamlessly into a decor that also incorporates Pop Art canvases that would make comic-strip pilot Buck Danny feel at home, and busts this time of the man himself, Léon Breitling, in eye-catching shades from green to pink.

Calibre B01, a giant leap

Breitling Chronométrie, which is the brand’s third entity alongside its head office in Granges and the engineering division, Breitling Technologie, in Geneva, sprang from a long-term view of production, and a deep-rooted desire for independence that would take the form of an in-house calibre. “Back in 2002, we received a letter informing us that Swiss Replica Montblanc Watches Group would be reviewing its supply of ébauches and parts,” commented Jean-Paul Girardin. “The message was clear: we had to find an alternative. Which we did, soon after, in Geneva where we met specialists with the ability to develop an in-house calibre. This led to the launch of Professional Flight Instruments, later renamed Breitling Technologie. The brief exactly corresponded to the brand’s philosophy: to develop a robust and reliable chronograph movement with an open architecture, 70-hour power reserve, and which could be certified by Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres.”

A full two years in development, the first prototype for the B01 calibre marked the beginning, in 2006, of a long and painstaking industrialisation process that would take a further three years. The Breitling Chronométrie factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds was the obvious choice for production. After the takeover in 1997 of Kelek, which specialised in assembling and casing movements for the brand, and having outgrown its original and now outdated site in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Breitling acquired land for a new production unit on the edge of town. The building opened for business in 2001. Six years later it tripled in size to accommodate the B01 project. The movement was revealed to the public at Baselworld 2009 inside a Chronomat. All in all, Rolex Replica Watches UK took Breitling five years to achieve manufacture status with a movement that now lends itself to five versions including a 24-hour display, a dual time zone, and a worldtimer. Five years, over half of which were spent fine-tuning the factory in line with the brand’s ambitions.

Watch Insider: Tissot Offers Automatic 80-Hour Movements at Affordable Prices

At first glance, Tissot’s Powermatic 80 automatic caliber appears to be just another ETA movement. But as I reveal in this article from my blog,  that impression is way off the mark. Much like Swatch’s new Sistem 51 caliber, this one represents another quiet Top Replica Breitling Watches making revolution.

Tissot has been working hand in hand with ETA (both are owned by the Swatch Group) on the research and development of this recently introduced automatic caliber. Together, they strove to push the limits in terms of precision, power and, essentially, giving time a new status. The Tissot Powermatic 80 Automatic caliber not only demonstrates great precision but also has 80 hours of power reserve. Most standard watches usually have a mainspring barrel that lasts 36 to 48 hours before needing to be wound up again. However, with a new construction concept that integrates a new spring barrel, Tissot and ETA were able to provide this movement with a greater power reserve, allowing the Fake Omega Watches for Sale to run for 80 hours before it needs to be wound.

Tissot Powermatic 80 Automatic caliber - angle

As if a greater power reserve was not enough, the companies also found a way of making the movement extremely precise and robust by concentrating on ways to improve the regulator system. One of the factors that contributed to that robustness was a new way of regulating the watch, which involves removing the index-assembly system and replacing it with a new, innovative technology. The high-tech escapement has no regulator; the rate is set at the factory with a laser, making the manual rate adjustments normally required by a mechanical 2015 Cheap Replica Watches UK unnecessary.

Tissot does not tell officially, but I assume the Tissot Powermatic 80 Automatic caliber, like the Swatch Sistem 51 movement, is also made entirely of ARCAP, an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc with exceptional anti-magnetic qualities. For more about the Swatch Sistem 51, read this article on the “Buzz Watches of Baselworld.”

Pure & Simple: Patek Philippe Calatrava vs. Lange Saxonia

Two plain-faced beauties, the Patek Philippe Calatrava and A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia, go head to head in this comparison test originally published in our April 2008 issue. Jens Koch gets in depth with the two timepieces and Nik Schölzel provides the gorgeous original photography.

A complication is a pretty thing, but it certainly doesn’t improve the legibility of a watch’s time display. And since the time of day is the most frequently sought information on a watch’s dial, it makes perfect sense to concentrate on the bare essentials: hours, minutes and perhaps also a subdial for the seconds hand to show that the Fake Breitling Watches Store is still running. Even the presence of a date display can detract from the perfect harmony and clarity of a dial.

The beauty of A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia and Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Reference 5196 resides in their simplicity. Absolutely nothing superfluous can be found on these gorgeously pure wristwatches.

Patek Philippe Calatrava and A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia

Both brands rank among the world’s finest manufactures. And each has roots that reach back to the 19th century. Ferdinand Adolph Lange founded the original A. Lange & Söhne in the small town of Glashütte in the Kingdom of Saxony (in what is now eastern Germany) in 1845. Lange developed the three-quarters plate and built pocket watches famous for their high quality. They were universally acknowledged as the finest timepieces made in Germany. The company was disbanded in 1945, and only in 1990 was the A. Lange & Söhne name resurrected by a new company founded, like the first, in Glashütte. The company is now owned by the Richemont Group.

Patek Philippe, which was founded in 1839, is  privately owned. This manufacture has created numerous spectacular timepieces in the course of its illustrious history, including the world’s most complicated pocket watches, which were built on commission from the banker Henry Graves. Patek Philippe was also among the first brands to produce Cheap Replica Breitling Watches. The Calibre 89 pocket watch, which debuted in 1989, has 33 functions and remains the world’s most complicated portable timepiece (roughly the size of a grapefruit, it’s so large that the term “watch” seems like a misnomer).

The two timepieces we tested are a far cry from the complicated creations for which both brands are famed. Each watch displays nothing but the time; each shows the passing seconds on an off-center subdial; and each has indices rather than numerals. The bare-essentials appearance of the dial reflects the simplicity of the movements. Neither has a self-winding mechanism. Both are therefore able to fit in very slim, elegant cases. Although the movements stick strictly to the basics, both are elaborately decorated by hand. The cases and other visible components are also of the highest quality. In a nutshell, they represent pure ticking luxury.

Both Rolex Replica Watches UK look to the past for their design inspiration. The Calatrava reference 5196 bears the same final digits as the original Calatrava, the reference 96 from 1932. The reference 5196 borrows its precursor’s dauphine hands, seconds subdial, faceted indices and wreath of tiny dots forming the minute circle. The diameter of the 96 was significantly smaller, so the rim of its seconds subdial was tangent to the periphery of the dial at 6 o’clock.