Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph

As an horological highlight in the Heritage Chronometrie Collection, Montblanc’s new Breitling replica watches ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph combines two of the most important chronometric complications: a chronograph to measure the duration of brief intervals and a patented tourbillon construction for absolute precision.

Montblanc debuted the patented ExoTourbillon mechanism, which was  completely developed and built in the Manufacture  in Villeret,  as part of the  Collection  Villeret  in 2010. Five years later, Montblanc returns to this complication to integrate it into Montblanc’s own monopusher automatic chronograph  calibre  in  the  Heritage Chronométrie  Collection.

As a consequence of the architecture of a classically constructed movement, the balance’s centre of gravity temporarily strays from the axis of rotation due to the influence of Earth’s gravitational force, which is particularly troublesome when the timepiece is in a vertical position. A tourbillon mechanism compensates for this centre-of-gravity error by enclosing the escapement inside a carriage or cage that continually rotates around its own axis. Gravity’s accelerating effect during the first 180 degrees of the carriage’s rotation is offset by a corresponding deceleration during the second 180 degrees, so the cheap Montblanc replica watch’s average rate remains constant.

Montblanc installed a large, massy, screw balance in the Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph. In a traditional tourbillon construction, this large balance would require a correspondingly large and heavy rotating cage. But the innovative mechanism of the ExoTourbillon solves this problem by isolating the screw balance from the rotating cage. The cage is smaller than the balance, which oscillates outside the rotating carriage and on a higher plane. The screw balance is borne between two jewels, while the tourbillon is neither cantilevered nor sandwiched between two bridges, but turns in a two-point bearing at the foot of its staff. The advantage of this construction is that a smaller rotating cage has less mass so it needs less energy to support its rotary motion. The rotating cage per se is also liberated from the weight of the screw balance: this further reduces the amount of necessary energy because the screw balance, which is isolated from the rotating carriage, is not disturbed by the inertia of the carriage. Compared to a traditional tourbillon construction, energy savings of approximatively 30% are achieved, while at the same time increasing the precision. This   innovative construction derives its name from the Greek prefix “exo”, which means “outside”  or  “external”.

With this patented ExoTourbillon construction, Montblanc offers for the first time a stop- second function that directly halts the screw balance by means of a tiny spring. Such a construction rarely accompanies a tourbillon and is very useful whenever  the  wearer wishes to precisely set not only the hour- and minute-, but also the second-hand. Directly halting the balance in a tourbillon is a more precise construction than arresting the second-hand by halting the rotation of the tourbillon’s cage because the top Breitling replica watches former instantly stops the balance and prevents the “after-swing”  that  can  occur  when  the  tourbillon’s cage is stopped. In order to precisely adjust the time, the tourbillon cage integrates a red marker in form of an arrow, which allows to read the seconds on the respective scale printed on the opening of the dial around the tourbillon.

This innovative Tourbillon construction is integrated in Montblanc’s own in-house developed chronograph calibre that combines all the elements of a traditional chronograph with a contemporary highly performant construction: monopusher with column wheel, efficient and precise vertical coupling, automatic winding and two barrels. Two semicircular counters with hands of different lengths to match the appropriate sectorial scales, enable the Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph to tally elapsed seconds and minutes.

These counters are embedded on two levels into the complexly designed and elaborately crafted dial, which also bears six facetted, applied, red gold indexes. The aesthetically appealing surfaces are styled with refinement and crafted with much love for detail. The date is indicated by a hand which extends the dial’s centre. The tip of this hand points to the current date on a circular grey scale. The hour-hand can be reset in hourly increments, thus ensuring quick and uncomplicated time setting, for example, when travelling. Repositioning the hour-hand has no effect whatsoever on the minute- and second-hand, so the precise time is always preserved. To set the date display, the user advances or retreats the hour-hand through 24 hours. Whenever this hand’s tip passes the 24th hour, the hand of the date display either advances or retreats accordingly.

Different from the other models in the Heritage Chronométrie Collection, the Montblanc ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph relies on a slightly different  case  construction.  The bezel is not flat, but concave, which creates an attractive aesthetic  effect  and simultaneously protects the bezel against scratches. The facetted horns are satin-finished on the inside and polished on the outside. Montblanc’s emblem, crafted as a distinctive   relief atop the crown is a distinguishing feature of the best fake Breitling watches entire collection. The leather strap is made at the Montblanc Pelletteria, the Maison’s  own  leather  manufacture  in  Florence, Italy. This timepiece is available in a 44-mm-diameter case crafted from 18K red gold.

5 Affordable TAG Heuer Watches for New Collectors

When it comes to automobile races and the precision chronograph Swiss replica Breitling watches that time them, TAG Heuer is the name most enthusiasts think of. Let’s take a look at five models that are available in stores now at accessible prices.

Aquaracer 300m

Launched in 2004, the Aquaracer series has developed into one of TAG Heuer’s most popular, and for good reason. These Breitling replica watches for men offer sporty looks and professional dive watch features at an accessible price.

As you may have discerned from its name, this TAG Heuer Aquaracer can descend to 300 meters, or nearly 1,000 feet below the surface, which is sufficient for even the most ardent underwater sportsman. Divers also appreciate the unidirectional countdown bezel; large, luminous hands and markers for excellent legibility under all conditions; the oversize, screw-down crown with double gaskets to keep what’s outside from getting inside; and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with nonreflective treatment. The bracelet features a double-security clasp to assure the Aquaracer stays put. The 41-mm diameter case falls into the “just right” range. The Swiss-made Caliber 5 automatic movement operates at 28,800 vph or 4 Hz with a 38-hour power reserve.

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300m retails for $2,600.

tag heuer aquaracer

Formula 1 Calibre 16 Chronograph

At this year’s Baselworld, TAG Heuer surprised many fans with an all-new version of the Formula 1. Enthusiasts had been asking for a larger case, and they got it. The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Calibre 16 Chronograph measures 44 mm in diameter. The case is not round, but rather slightly barrel- or cushion-shaped, giving it a look that is both retro and modern.

The case and tachymeter bezel feature a combination of polished, brushed and sandblasted finishes. The dial includes continuous seconds at 9 o’clock, a 12-hour chronograph counter at 6 o’clock, and a 30-minute chronograph counter at 12 o’clock. Red-tipped hands improve legibility. The massive case and screw-down “easy-grip” crown combine to provide 200 meter water resistance.

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Calibre 16 Chronograph is priced from $2,900.

tag heuer formula 1 caliber 16

Monaco Calibre 6

When you say TAG Heuer, many racing enthusiasts immediately think of two things: Steve McQueen, and the Monaco he famously wore in the film Le Mans. The Monaco may be TAG Heuer’s best-known model, and the iconic square shape has remained essentially unchanged over the decades, giving it that rare “instant recognition” factor. Some may not know that when it launched in 1969, the Monaco featured the first-ever square water-resistant case.

Today, you can strap on a TAG Heuer Monaco with an automatic-winding mechanical movement in a stylish and distinctive case without breaking the bank. The Monaco Calibre 6 case is fashioned from brushed stainless steel with a bold, all-black titanium carbide coating. Below the sapphire crystal, the red “Automatic” text and small seconds hand offer a hint of color. A race-style perforated leather strap with red accents completes the package.

The TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 6 retails for $3,900.

affordable tag heuer monaco

Link Calibre 16

The Link Calibre 16 combines TAG Heuer’s signature chronograph look with a modern reinterpretation of the widely recognized “link” bracelet, resulting in a distinctive and elegant sports replica Cartier watches. The polished tachymeter bezel is mounted on a brushed steel case, and the screw-down crown with double gaskets provides 100-meter water resistance. The sapphire crystal is treated with a nonreflective coating on both sides for excellent legibility.

Beneath the crystal, the red-tipped central chronograph hand measures elapsed seconds marked on the angled inner bezel for perfect timing. The polished and faceted hour markers are hand-applied to each dial. The automatic-winding mechanical movement runs in 25 jewels at 28,800 vph with a 42-hour power reserve.

The TAG Heuer Link Calibre 16 Chronograph is priced at $4,450.

tag heuer link

Carrera Calibre 1887

The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 brings together two significant events in TAG Heuer history. 1887 is the year Edouard Heuer invented the oscillating pinion, an important development in the field of chronographs. In Heuer’s design, the pinion served to engage and disengage, or start and stop, the chronograph mechanism.

In 1963, Jack Heuer named the Carrera collection after the Carrera Panamericana, the legendary 1950s road race considered by many to be the most dangerous in the world. Jack envisioned a timepiece for drivers that offered a wide-open, easy-to-read dial and a shock-resistant, waterproof case that could withstand the punishment of a multi-day event.

In 2010, TAG Heuer put its newly developed Caliber 1887 chronograph movement in the Carrera. The top Breitling replica watches features a ceramic bezel with a tachymeter scale surrounding a sapphire crystal. Both of these components are virtually scratchproof. The 43 mm case is fine-brushed and polished steel. Sporty black and elegant anthracite gray dials are available, and the new bracelet with H-shaped links completes the look.

The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 Auto Chrono is priced at $5,550.

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887

SIHH 2015 in 10 outstanding watches

Any important gathering of watches will invariably lead to a discussion on the timepieces that most caught the horophile’s eye. The 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie has been no exception. The verdict in ten outstanding watches.

In fake Breiitling watchmaking circles, definitions are often open to debate. What constitutes a “complication” is one such conundrum. The general consensus is that any function in addition to indications of hours, minutes and seconds is a complication. Strictly speaking then, automatic winding along with the various mechanisms employed to reduce positional errors in rate, such as the tourbillon or the karrusel, are not complications because they give no additional indication. Yet how often is the tourbillon described as the “king” of complications? In a similar vein, what should we understand by “grande complication“? The most widely accepted definition is a watch that combines three functions: a striking mechanism, astronomical indications, and a mechanism to measure short intervals. In its most classic configuration, a grande complication watch would thus incorporate a minute repeater, a Perpetual Calendar and a chronograph. Where this leaves the tourbillon is another matter for discussion and proof that in watchmaking, terms can be misused and lack… precision.

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Cartier, at any rate, doesn’t make the distinction with its Rotonde Grande Complication Calibre 9406 MC. It took five years to develop and represents fifteen weeks of production, ten weeks of decorating and finishing, and five weeks of assembly. The result, says the brand, “is measured in millimetres. A thickness of 5.49mm for a self-winding mechanical movement that brings together three of the most prestigious Fine replica Watchmaking complications: a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater and a flying tourbillon. Of all Cartier watchmaking creations, this timepiece is the most complex.”

Jaeger-LeCoultre has achieved an identical level of complexity with its Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication which, in addition to hours and minutes, incorporates an orbital flying tourbillon and sky chart, a minute repeater with crystal cathedral gongs, and a 24-hour indication with zodiac signs, months and days. Jaeger-LeCoultre explains this ‘astronomical’ AAA Cartier Replica Watches for sale thus: “The counter-clockwise revolution of the flying tourbillon in 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds is a fascinating sight. The tourbillon whirls around the dial, to which it is fixed, like a capsule suspended in the stratosphere. To highlight the astronomical aspect of time measurement, the tourbillon does not indicate the passing of civil time, but instead that of sidereal time, the unit used by astronomers to follow the trajectory of heavenly bodies.”

Still in the complex realms of striking watches, the Royal Oak Concept RD#1 by Audemars Piguet is doubtless one of the most audible minute repeaters in the history of the wristwatch. It is the result of a research and development project launched in 2006 in collaboration with the federal institute of technology in Lausanne (EPFL). A similar feat of audible engineering comes from A. Lange & Söhne. Its ZEITWERK Minute Repeater is the first to combine a mechanical jumping numerals display with a decimal minute repeater: whenever the wearer triggers, by means of a pusher, the three-note striking mechanism he hears exactly the time displayed on the dial. IWC has chosen a similar type of display for its Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” which “brings together all IWC’s expertise in its in-house 89801 calibre, with a perpetual calendar featuring a leap year indicator and quick-action switch for the large displays as well as a chronograph with flyback function.”

In a whirl

The tourbillon, meanwhile, has lost none of its powers of seduction. Incorporated into an extra-thin skeleton movement, thanks to which the Piaget Emperador coussin 1270S can claim another record for thinness in its category, at 8.85mm high. Inclined at 25° and rotating in 24 seconds at Greubel Forsey whose Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision is the brand’s third invention, this time visible on the back of the cheap Omega replica watches online under a sapphire crystal dome. Cylindrical at Montblanc whose Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama with its triple time zone indication shows world time in the fascinating form of two rotating globes representing the two hemispheres.

Not one but two tourbillons at Roger Dubuis where the Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon makes a powerful statement. With its RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur, Richard Mille is there where least expected. A magnolia blossom at 7 o’Clock wraps its five hand-crafted and hand-painted petals around a flying tourbillon. Says the brand: “Working in passing or on demand using the pusher at 9 o’clock, the Magnolia opens and closes with rhythmic regularity in a delicate kinetic ballet.” As an ultimate refinement, when fully opened the entire flying tourbillon with its gem-set stamen lifts up one millimetre, exactly as the flower arches upwards to increase its chances of pollination. At this level of “complication”, quarrels over terminology pale into insignificance.

Looking Time in the Eye: Two New HYT Skull Watches

Skulls are a popular motif in luxury watches lately — check out our list of some of the most notable ones — and now HYT, one of the most unconventional Breitling replica watchmakers out there, gets in on the act in its own unique “hydromechanical horology” style with the release of the HYT Skull, available in two colorful versions.

To create the new HYT Skull Green Eye and Red Eye models, HYT CEO Vincent Perriard gave his watchmakers a simple but challenging goal: make a timepiece that has a totally original look but still maintains the HYT watch brand’s signature style. “Simply taking an existing movement, giving it a vague skull shape and presenting it as an entirely new piece is not really our style,” Perriard says.

The watches, like previous HYT models, use a colored fluid — flowing through a thin capillary and controlled by the expansion and contraction of two vertical bellows in the movement — to keep track of the hours with the aid of a numbered scale around the dial. (For a full explanation on how HYT watches keep time, read our article on the original HYT watch, the HYT H1.) In the HYT Skull, however, this fluid-filled tube was particularly difficult to execute because it needed to conform the the outline of a skull, i.e., bending at four angles, rather than the round shape of previous HYT watches.

Also making this timepiece different from its predecessors is the fact that the fluid-filled, skull-shaped capillary with hours scale is the only indicator of time on the high quality replica Cartier watches; unlike the HYT H1 and H2, there is no separate hand for the minutes. And unlike those other two models, which offer the wearer a large glimpse of the eye-catching movement from the dial side, the HYT Skull mostly hides it, focusing instead on the dominant skull icon on the front, and showing just a peek of the vertical bellows under the “nose,” which expands and contracts continuously in this new version to force the fluids to move through the sharply angled tubing in order to tell time accurately.

HYT Skull Green Eye - front

There is more going on in the HYT Skull than just the hours indication, however. The right eye of the dial’s skull serves as a power-reserve indicator for the watch: using a series of translucent colored inserts, each with a subtly different color variation, the eye gradually darkens as the movement nears the end of its 65 hours of energy. And in the left eye, a close look reveals a continuously rotating seconds indicator. Both eyes have a subtle honeycomb pattern that adds to their depth.

HYT has created a new 51-mm case for the HYT Skull, with new, crisply angled lugs. The crown protector of previous versions has been removed, and the single-assembly push-button crown, which is used to adjust the time, has been placed between 2 o’clock and 3 o’clock. The HYT Skull case also has incorporated lateral inserts, meaning many combinations of materials can be used in future models.

For now, the HYT Skull is available in two versions, both limited editions. The Skull “Green Eye,” with a black-DLC titanium case and green fluid, is limited to 50 pieces; the “Red Eye” version, with red fluid and a case combining DLC titanium with 5N rose gold, is limited to 25 pieces. HYT says the first of the HYT Skull Swiss replica watches will “head” to the market in May 2015.

HYT Skull Red Eye - front